The following is the results of experimentation of what will run SLI lamps and I have also now included other info I found out re 200w SLI too. A LOT of chokes will run 60w SLI lamps but the results are somewhat surprising. I have run tests on voltage and current on every choke I tried. The results are below. Firstly - a disclaimer - these are my own findings under my own research - these results are for entertainment purposes only and I do do not recommend you use my findings to run your own lamps - if you choose to do so, you do it at your own risk and I take no responsibility for any damage you may or may not cause to any SLI lamp using any of the info here!
Now we have that out of the way, I would like to draw attention to a number of things in particular in my findings. First off, you can run a 60w SLI lamp off a 50w SON choke - however - different brands of 50w SON choke behave VERY differently — even kicking out different voltages and currents! - so not all of them are good enough to run the lamps!! Secondly, 60w SLI lamps will run off leak transformers without a starter switch or any other form of ignitor - I know this because I’ve done it and my SLI test lamp still works just fine after multiple runs on leak transformers. Unless it was a leak transformer (takes live and neutral in and out), on all other chokes (those wired with just live in and out) I used the standard fluorescent starter set-up. Furthermore, I am beginning to suspect that the reason for the rarity of the dedicated 60w SLI choke, was because of its original high price; given that many 60w SLI fittings were remote geared, and mine has happily run off a number of different 55w SOX chokes - pretty much all of which gave consistent voltage and current readings sufficient to safely run 60w SLI lamps - regardless of make and being leak or non-leak, I suspect that councils could well have been running 60w SLI lamps off more common 55w SOX gear to save money even though it wasn't an exact match. Finally, often I have found that the initial voltage of some chokes is higher or lower than the recommended voltage, as is the current, but then it settles down to a more suitable voltage and/or current as the lamp reaches full warmth. Also interesting to note, that after the lamp reached full warmth/brightness on some chokes - including some 50w SON chokes, the voltage would start to drop through the floor and the current more than double to the lamp and continue to increase until I cut the power. This would also happen at the same time the chokes got so hot they couldn’t be held. Of-course all chokes get warm or hot - but there’s hot and hot!!
Anyway, here are some figures - make of these what you will:
Lamp specification for voltage and current for a 60w SLI tube - as per lamptech website: 80-82v, 0.83amps
…and here are what voltage and current the following chokes kicked out while running a 60w SLI lamp:
Genuine GEC dedicated 60w SLI choke: 80v, 0.75 amps
Philips L4054 - 50w SON choke: 69v, 0.82 amps - good temperature after 30 minutes run
Philips BSN50L32 - 50w SON choke: 67.2v, 0.83 amps - healthy temperature after 30 minutes run
Parmar 50w SON choke: 77v, 0.67 amps
Thorn SHP50 - 50w SON choke: Started at 91.5v, 0.56amps, eventually settled at: 68v, 0.84 amps - ran red hot - too hot!
Thorn G53332.4 - 35w SOX choke: 84.5v, 0.57 amps - ran pretty damn hot!
Very old 5ft 80w fluorescent choke: 80v, 1.6 amps - current kept increasing, volts kept dropping - very bad match
Philips L4045bx 40/60w SOX: 85v, 0.58 amps
WRTL 55w SOX choke: 85v, 0.58 amps
Philips BSX355L 82 - 35/55w SOX choke: 85v, 0.55 amps
Philips BSX355L 204 - 35/55w SOX choke: 84v, 0.56 amps - healthy temperature
Transtar TC1001 - 35/55w SOX choke (LEAK): 78v, 0.65 amps - on 55w taps out - good temperature
84v, 0.56 amps - on 35w taps out - good temperature
Philips L5080BX - 80w MBFU choke: 95v, 0.95 amps - volts kept dropping, current kept increasing - very bad match
In summary, Philips L4054 or Philips BSX 355L choke are probably a safe bet if you aren't running a lamp 24/7 but want to enjoy it lit.
Now untested info that I am told would work and I see no reason why not:
50w SON choke, 80w MBFU choke, 5ft 80w fluorescent choke will all apparently safely run 60w SLI lamps PROVIDED that they have a 6.8mf 450v capacitor wired in series with the choke as the capacitor apparently regulates the current - I have not tested this ...yet!
For 200w SLI operation, this info I have not tested yet in experiments but understand that the following will operate 200w SLI, and I will test as soon as I can:
175w metal halide choke - almost exact match with any wattage SOX ignitor
150w SON choke: Two x 6.8mf 450v capacitors wired in parallel and then that wired in series with the live in on the choke and any wattage SOX ignitor wired parallel with the output of choke and neutral, or on either end of lamp.
