What's the rule with this?
Does the bulb have to be the same wattage, more or less or is there a curve difference in something as they go up and down?
Is there any material on this anyone's done?
Ballasting tubes in series with light bulbs
- lasagafield
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2018 11:06 pm
- Location: Salford
Ballasting tubes in series with light bulbs
Gotta have me, a good... LASAGA!
- Ash
- Posts: 387
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2017 9:42 pm
Re: Ballasting tubes in series with light bulbs
You are building a series circuit with 2 "resistors", both of which are non linear, each in its own way
If it would be normal (constant Resistance) resistors, they would act according to Ohms law : Voltage across the resistor = Current * Resistance. Change the Voltage by some factor and the current will change accordingly
When connecting the resistors in series, the voltage splits proportionally to the resistance (as can be evident if you write down the equations for the current in the series circuit, since it must be the same in the 2 series connected resistors)
Discharge lamps (when the dischrage is allready struck) behave approximately as "constant Voltage" devices : The Voltage across the discharge will stay the same regardless of the current
Once you have your Voc (say 230V) and the arc V of the lamp of choice (103V for 40W T12), the rest of voltage (230 - 103 = 127V) will drop on your ballast resistor
Some notes :
1. It isn't really right to do what i did here. The voltage across the lamp is squarewave (or in our case here, something like discontinuous squarewave due to longer off times at zero crossings), you can't just add/subtract that with a sine wave RMS voltage. But it is close enough for a first estimate...
2. The calculation is different for resistive and magnetic ballasts :
Resistive ballasts - Assume that there is no Phase shift (also not true, but nevermind it) : Vballast = Voc - Varc
Magnetic ballasts - Assume that the Phase shift is 90deg : Vballast = sqrt( Voc^2 - Varc^2 )
Now, we have to take a ballast resistor that will conduct the desired current (430mA in 40W T12 example) at the voltage it will be getting
127V / 0.43A = 295 Ohm
If we want to use an Incandescent lamp as the resistor, we have to take into account also the behavior of the lamp :
The filament resistance is fairly low when cold and goes up by several times when the lamp is up to temperature (the effect is immediate, as fast as the filament heats up or cools down, it is not delayed to seconds or more)
So : Take for example an 100W 230V lamp
At 230V, we can calculate the resistance of the lamp :
100W / 230V = 0.434A
230V / 0.434A = 530 Ohm
At 0V (cold), we can measure the lamp with a multimeter. So the max current that the lamp could pass is
230V / (measured resistance)
We know that at voltages inbetween the resistance will be inbetween. There probably is an approximate formula to calculate it which is used by lamp manufacturers, but i don't know it
Actually, it makes sense to think of it in current, not going to the resistance figures at all. Which gives some more insight :
We know that 100W lamp at 230V will take 0.434A (near perfect for a 40W T12... But the lamp won't be getting 230V, so the current won't be 0.434A)
If the lamp would be a constant Resistance device, then at 127V, it would take proportionally :
127/230 * 0.434 = 0.240A
However, since the filament is colder, it's resistance is less and therefore current will be more than 0.240A
So without knowing much more, we can expect that 40W T12 + 100W GLS in series on 230V will provide somewhere between 0.240A and 0.430A (and most likely well around the middle between those values, and not near the ends)
This is close enough estimate to take the lamps and try.. And then experiment from there
Take into account that during starting/preheating, near full Voc is applied to the ballast lamp. So for example, 130V GLS lamp cannot be used as a ballast (at 127V), since it will be getting something near 220V during preheating
Also, with Resistive ballast, it is generally a rule that Voc must be atleast 2x lamp arc V (not precise rule), and that differnt gas fills will act differently around the zero crossing - So what works for 40W T12 won't necessarily work for 36W T8
If it would be normal (constant Resistance) resistors, they would act according to Ohms law : Voltage across the resistor = Current * Resistance. Change the Voltage by some factor and the current will change accordingly
When connecting the resistors in series, the voltage splits proportionally to the resistance (as can be evident if you write down the equations for the current in the series circuit, since it must be the same in the 2 series connected resistors)
Discharge lamps (when the dischrage is allready struck) behave approximately as "constant Voltage" devices : The Voltage across the discharge will stay the same regardless of the current
Once you have your Voc (say 230V) and the arc V of the lamp of choice (103V for 40W T12), the rest of voltage (230 - 103 = 127V) will drop on your ballast resistor
Some notes :
1. It isn't really right to do what i did here. The voltage across the lamp is squarewave (or in our case here, something like discontinuous squarewave due to longer off times at zero crossings), you can't just add/subtract that with a sine wave RMS voltage. But it is close enough for a first estimate...
2. The calculation is different for resistive and magnetic ballasts :
Resistive ballasts - Assume that there is no Phase shift (also not true, but nevermind it) : Vballast = Voc - Varc
Magnetic ballasts - Assume that the Phase shift is 90deg : Vballast = sqrt( Voc^2 - Varc^2 )
Now, we have to take a ballast resistor that will conduct the desired current (430mA in 40W T12 example) at the voltage it will be getting
127V / 0.43A = 295 Ohm
If we want to use an Incandescent lamp as the resistor, we have to take into account also the behavior of the lamp :
The filament resistance is fairly low when cold and goes up by several times when the lamp is up to temperature (the effect is immediate, as fast as the filament heats up or cools down, it is not delayed to seconds or more)
So : Take for example an 100W 230V lamp
At 230V, we can calculate the resistance of the lamp :
100W / 230V = 0.434A
230V / 0.434A = 530 Ohm
At 0V (cold), we can measure the lamp with a multimeter. So the max current that the lamp could pass is
230V / (measured resistance)
We know that at voltages inbetween the resistance will be inbetween. There probably is an approximate formula to calculate it which is used by lamp manufacturers, but i don't know it
Actually, it makes sense to think of it in current, not going to the resistance figures at all. Which gives some more insight :
We know that 100W lamp at 230V will take 0.434A (near perfect for a 40W T12... But the lamp won't be getting 230V, so the current won't be 0.434A)
If the lamp would be a constant Resistance device, then at 127V, it would take proportionally :
127/230 * 0.434 = 0.240A
However, since the filament is colder, it's resistance is less and therefore current will be more than 0.240A
So without knowing much more, we can expect that 40W T12 + 100W GLS in series on 230V will provide somewhere between 0.240A and 0.430A (and most likely well around the middle between those values, and not near the ends)
This is close enough estimate to take the lamps and try.. And then experiment from there
Take into account that during starting/preheating, near full Voc is applied to the ballast lamp. So for example, 130V GLS lamp cannot be used as a ballast (at 127V), since it will be getting something near 220V during preheating
Also, with Resistive ballast, it is generally a rule that Voc must be atleast 2x lamp arc V (not precise rule), and that differnt gas fills will act differently around the zero crossing - So what works for 40W T12 won't necessarily work for 36W T8
- lasagafield
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2018 11:06 pm
- Location: Salford
Re: Ballasting tubes in series with light bulbs
I'm printing that out!
Gonna sort through my tubes and have a think about combinations.
Gonna sort through my tubes and have a think about combinations.
Gotta have me, a good... LASAGA!
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