Painting fluorescent fixtures

[Ash]

The ultimate would probably be ask to do your FL in a car paint shop and include it in the oven with a car

[Beta 5]

Interesting topic, I have repainted and restored several fixtures myself, usually using rattle cans with acceptable results.
I have done several gear trays in street lights, using paint stripper and taking it back to bare metal and then priming and respraying gloss white.

One issue I have had with the rattle can paints is some of them don't seem to cure very hard, and even after months of being fully dried, if the fitting is say placed on a shelf the areas in contact with the surface it's resting on the paint seems to sort of "spread" as if it's still tacky despite being fully dry. I believe it's an issue more with the Acrylic paints and a synthetic enamel or cellulose based paint may perform better?

I have also on a few occasions had stuff sent away and shot blasted and powder coated. The finish is then factory perfect and extremely durable but it can get expensive so isn't really worth doing just for a gear tray where a spray can job will suffice, and is best reserved for stuff that it will really make the difference.

[Oliver]

I've used gloss and enamel paint in the past and both have been okay for different parts of lights I have restored.

Humbrol Enamel Paint (applied with paint brush).

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This side was painted using white gloss paint.

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Grey gloss which was made up from other tins It still covered well and looks good.

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[Beta 5]

Nice job on that Oliver!
I usually only hand paint rougher castings like cast iron and sand cast aluminium, but that looks like it's come out well. At least you don't have as much trouble of runs in the paint when hand painting too.
Where did you get your paint from? I may give that a try as I have a lantern I'd like to hand paint once the seized screws have been dealt with.

[Oliver]

Thanks!

The enamel paint was from Boyes in a really small tin. It was cheaper at Boyes than online when I got it.

I had some trouble with the screws on that sign light but I eventually got them all out with WD40 and a lot of force!

[Beta 5]

Ah yes I do recall seeing a good paint selection last time I was in Boyes, I will keep a look out for some for my next restoration anyway.
The screws do seem to a problem in castings sometimes, usually when they have been installed without any grease! WD-40 does help if you let it soak, and sometimes some heat is needed to help release the thread. The worst thing is if they snap off, then you've got to try and drill them out and re-tap the holes which is a nightmare!

[PeterG]

If you want the best finish - I'm talking looking like factory new - collect a pile of rusty old shyte you plan to restore and get it shot blasted and powder coated as a job lot - the finish is unbeatable.

[Danny]

Once the weather settles and warms up, if it ever fucking does, this 6ft twin T8 Moorlite fitting will be my next restoration. It is quite rusty in places

Any advice on prep, painting and a really good finish is greatly appreciated as i am not really in a position to have it sent away and shot blasted.

[Beta 5]

I think you'll have to strip the cover plate at least back to bare metal possibly parts of the spine too if it's rusted.
I've used paint stripper on gear trays in a similar state before, to remove the most of the paint and then used a rust neutraliser on any rust on the steel. I then sanded down with a fine sand paper/sanding sponge to prep for primer and paint.

[PeterG]

The way I do it is abrasive wheel at high speed or wire brush wheel on a drill at high speed (using goggles as the occasional loose wire tends to fly out like needles at high speed), and use that to get all the crap and rust off. A few coats of undercoat to thicken it up before the top coats will make it look pretty good. Its all about the prep so primary thing is to get all the crap and rust off using wire brush wheel at high speed.