Present from james and homemade t8 tube
James sent me some t8 cathode assemblies, a bag of fillaments and a pot of emission compound. This means i can make fluorescent tubes without butchering existing ones. The t8 tube is colour 32 deluxe warm white

Present from james and homemade t8 tube

James sent me some t8 cathode assemblies, a bag of fillaments and a pot of emission compound. This means i can make fluorescent tubes without butchering existing ones. The t8 tube is colour 32 deluxe warm white

92A2658D-120A-4DAD-8E4B-7B5646F21829.jpeg DPP_3666.jpg 1569013806887.png 20190812_181456.jpg 20190702_185524~2.jpg
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Comment 1 to 6 of 6
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Kev   [20 Sep, 2019 at 11:42 PM]
Nice how many did you get just the 5?
oliver   [21 Sep, 2019 at 12:20 AM]
What happens if you put extra emitter on?
FrontSideBus   [21 Sep, 2019 at 02:10 AM]
Very nice!
James   [21 Sep, 2019 at 08:28 AM]
That arrived quickly!
If you put on more emitter, it just falls off in bigger pieces and lifetime is actually reduced. For every coil type there is an optimum weight of emitter that has to be drawn inside to achieve maximum life.
I am impressed that you managed to seal to the stems, that is not easy because we now make them in barium-silicate glass (Philips #360 glass) which needs much more annealing than the lead-alkali and soda-lime glass you are used to. I will upload the datasheet for this glass so you can see its characteristics. You should try to make the seals hotter though, and allow the outer rim of the flare to roll around the bulb glass by its own surface tension while fluid, this will reduce the risk of ringoffs. Also I would advise to constrict the exhaust tubes before pumping. We use large diameter tubing to pump at high gas flow rates, and very thin wall so as to be able to tipoff at 6500/hour, and this can really only done reliably by an automated tipping mechanism. For hand-tipping it is difficult to avoid re-entrant angles inside the tip which lead to stresses and risk of fracture, but by pre-necking down the tube before sealing you can avoid that.
eclipsislamps   [21 Sep, 2019 at 09:58 AM]
I got quite lucky because that tubing is the same glass, though the wall thickness is 1.5mm so i had to neck it down then blow it out to thin it so i could seal the rings better. I used a pair of normal blowtorches and slid a piece of copper tubing over the stem to spread the heat over it and stop it melting. Whats the balls on the ends of the fillaments? Hope its not amalgam and why is the emitter pink?
James   [22 Sep, 2019 at 08:59 AM]
Ok that was fortunate! The ends of our coils are balled in a carbon arc, this is simply to eliminate burrs at the cut ends and ensure easier feeding on the automount machines. There are also different emitter mixes for each lamp type and they are dyed to aid identification. The pink emitter is the most common, and is used for F36 and F58 T8 stick coils. There is amalgam however on the shields of the fully mounted assemblies, but until you heat that it is safely bound in a titanium-zirconium alloy.

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